Yesterday I had to pass through Detroit and, as I often do when I return to the slumbering giant of a city, and wandered into Taqueria Lupitas.

Lupitas was one of my most frequent lunch stops when I worked in the city and offers arguably the most authentic Mexican food in all of Mexicantown. I would have happily gone in simply for the smells, but when I saw one of the chefs throwing a fresh batch of Cabeza on the grill, I immediately ordered two Tacos de Cabaza (beef …